Faith Amour Hair Care

Archive for the ‘Moisturize’ Category


For centuries, natural oils have been used to condition human hair. These natural products are still used today, including essential oils such as tea tree oil and carrier oils such as jojoba oil. A conditioner popular with men in the late Victorian era was Macassar oil, but this product was quite greasy and required pinning a small cloth, known as an antimacassar, to chairs and sofas to keep the upholstery from being damaged by the Macassar oil.

Modern hair conditioner was created at the turn of the 20th century when well-known perfumer Ed. Pinaud presented a product he called brilliantine at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. His product was intended to soften men’s hair, including beards and mustaches. Since the invention of Pinaud’s early products, modern science has advanced the hair conditioner industry to include those made with silicone, fatty alcohols, and quaternary ammonium compounds. These chemical products allow the benefits of hair conditioner without feeling greasy or heavy.

Hair conditioner is different from cream rinse (often spelled “creme rinse”). A cream rinse is simply a detangler and, as its name implies, has a thinner consistency than conditioner. Hair conditioner is a thicker substance which coats the cuticle of the hair itself
[edit] Ingredients

There are several types of hair conditioner ingredients, differing in composition and functionality:

* Moisturizers, whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants.
* Reconstructors, usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is supposedly to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer crosslinking.
* Acidifiers, acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner’s pH at about 3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair’s somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened.
* Detanglers, which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
* Thermal protectors, usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by, e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
* Glossers, light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones, e.g., dimethicone or cyclomethicone.
* Oils (EFAs – essential fatty acids), which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs).
* Surfactants – Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin contains negatively-charged amino acids. Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants, which don’t wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
* Lubricants, such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc
* Sequestrants, for better function in hard water.
* Antistatic agents
* Preservatives

pH

Conditioners are frequently acidic, as low pH protonates the amino acids, providing the hair with positive charge and thus more hydrogen bonds between the keratin scales, giving the hair a more compact structure. Organic acids such as citric acid are usually used to maintain acidity.

Types

* Pack conditioners, are heavy and thick, with a high content of surfactants able to bind to the hair structure and “glue” the hair surface scales together. These are usually applied to the hair for a longer time. The surfactants are based on long straight aliphatic chains similar to saturated fatty acids. Their molecules have a tendency to crystallize easily, giving the conditioner higher viscosity, and they tend to form thicker layers on the hair surface.

* Leave-in conditioners are thinner and have different surfactants which add only a little material to the hair. They are based on unsaturated chains, which are bent rather than straight. This shape makes them less prone to crystallizing, making a lighter, less viscous mixture and providing significantly thinner layer on the hair. The difference between leave-in and pack conditioners is similar to the difference between fats and oils.

* Ordinary conditioners, combining some aspects of both pack and leave-in ones.

* Hold conditioners, based on cationic polyelectrolyte polymers, holding the hair in a desired shape. These have both the function and the composition similar to diluted hair gels.

Advertisements

Protective style vs. low manipulation

A protective style is where your ends are protected, shielded away, and invisible to outside elements i.e. weather (rain, snow, wind, sun etc.). These styles really help in retaining length. Some examples would include buns, braids, cornrows, wigs, weaves, lacefronts, french braids, up-dos, phony ponies etc. Protective styles can be considered as low manipulation styles, however, low manipulation styles are not protective styles.

Low manipulation, basically means styling the hair with no direct heat. Braid outs, twist outs, bantu knots, pin curls, flexi rod sets, roller sets etc. are all under the category of low manipulation styles. These styles require no direct heat (blow dryer or flat iron) and barely any energy or skill on your part. They are easy to do and healthier style choices since direct heat is the quickest way to dry out the hair.


Importance of moisturizing your hair

Retaining moisture in highly textured hair is one of the most common concerns for people of African descent. Oils naturally produced by the scalp may not be able to travel easily down the length of the hair, putting the ends of the hair at increased risk of breakage and dryness. Regularly infusing the hair strands with moisture is the key to preventing damage and promoting long, healthy hair.

Steam Treatments
According to Black-Hair-Growth.info, steam treatments are an effective, economical way to revitalize and moisturize the hair strands. Resembling a hooded hair dryer, a hair steaming unit emits mists of steam that penetrate the hair shaft and add sheen and softness while hair is under the steamer unit. Many salons offer steam treatments to clients, although portable steam treatment units can be found in beauty supply stores and range in price from $100 to $300, as of 2010. Steam treatments are best used with plastic shower caps; you can recreate the effects of hair steamers by allowing the hair to sit under a plastic cap or saran wrap during a hot shower.

Moisturizing Conditioners
There are a variety of moisturizing conditioners available that will help add moisture to the hair. Many of these moisturizing conditioners contain silicones that coat the hair strands, though. Over time, some may find that their hair is actually more resistant to moisture treatments due to silicone buildup coating the strands. For this reason, moisturizing conditioners that contain silicones should be used sparingly in black hair care. If products with silicones are used to moisturize the hair occasionally, LongHair.org recommends you use a clarifying product to prevent product buildup and brittle hair.

Healthier Hair Accessories
Retaining moisture in black hair can be difficult because of the spiraled or coiled structure of the hair strands. Avoid cotton hair accessories as they tend to leech moisture from the hair and may damage the strands. According to LongHair.org, satin and silk hair accessories are much better options that help the hair retain moisture and integrity.

Protective Styling
According to Black-Hair-Growth.info, protective styling is an indirect way to keep the hair moisturized. Simple yet elegant protective styles such as braids, twists and buns are common mainstays in black hair care routines that will help ensure healthy hair. Buns and braided protective styles should not be worn too tightly, as this will eventually lead to breaking, dry and brittle hair. With protective styles, the objective is to maintain the integrity of the fragile ends, so take care to ensure that the ends are kept from excessively grazing against the shoulders and clothes, both of which contribute to moisture loss and damage.

Overnight Moisturizing
According to LongHair.org, moisturizing the hair overnight–or deep moisturizing–is necessary for hair lacking optimal porosity. There are many deep moisturizing treatments that can be purchased inexpensively at local supermarkets. Homemade deep moisturizers often work just as well as commercial products. One inexpensive deep moisturizer is the avocado. Rich in nutrients and fatty acids, an avocado hair mask can nourish dry, brittle, or damaged hair. Simply mash a medium or large avocado until it is the consistency of baby food, then apply to hair and leave on overnight.


Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 14 other followers

Post Dates

December 2017
S M T W T F S
« Sep    
 12
3456789
10111213141516
17181920212223
24252627282930
31