Faith Amour Hair Care

Archive for the ‘Hair Color’ Category


Hair color and Black hair

Hair color is the pigmentation of hair follicles due to two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Generally, if more melanin is present, the color of the hair is darker; if less melanin is present, the hair is lighter. Levels of melanin can vary over time causing a person’s hair color to change, and it is possible to have hair follicles of more than one color

Today, more than ever, African-American women have plenty of options when it comes to hair styling. Many options are temporary, and some are permanent. Some are harmless, and some are potentially dangerous. Hair color is an option that can offer radiance and beauty as well as irreversible damage. African-American women have many considerations when using hair color. Since many African-American women also chemically straighten or curl their hair, they are layering one chemical alteration on top of another. Relaxers and permanents use chemicals that breakdown the protein bond in the hair shaft. This break down leaves the shaft in a vulnerable state. It requires extra maintenance to restore moisture and suppleness that has been loss. When a woman then applies a hair coloring, it is possibly robbing the hair of more moisture.
Many hair colors on the market contain ammonia and hydrogen peroxide in their base. Hydrogen peroxide is used as a bleaching agent, and is extremely drying. This can lead to dry, brittle hair that breaks off. At best, if it does not break off it will become dry, and take on the texture of straw. Because of the dryness, there will be dullness to the hair color. Care must also be taken when deciding the timetable of applying hair color. One should not apply a relaxer and hair color on the same day. The hair will be too vulnerable from one application to withstand the chemicals of another. Relaxing and coloring should be done at least two weeks apart. It is preferable to relax the hair first, and then follow up with the coloring. The reason is that the sodium and calcium hydroxide found in relaxers tend to subtly strip the hair of color during the relaxing process. If one color’s first, and then relaxes, the chances of having a lighter color than desired is increased. Pre treatments are beneficial when coloring the hair. Washing the hair with a protein conditioner only (no shampoo) helps build additional bonds and strength within the hair shaft. Immediately following a coloring service, a deep conditioner should be applied to restore moisture that is lost.
Not all color options are as dangerous as permanent color. There are rinses that do not contain ammonia or peroxide, yet provide effective hair color. But rinses are more of a coating, than a penetrating color. Thus an African-American woman with dark hair cannot get a lighter color than her natural hair. Rinses limit you to your own natural shade range. Also, rinses are semi-permanent, thus they will fade more and more with each consecutive wash. The advantage of a rinse is, because it does not penetrate the shaft, it may be applied immediately following a relaxer treatment. Another safe and semi-permanent color option is henna. Henna is a natural dye that is plant derived. It contains no peroxide or ammonia, and like a rinse it coats the shaft, more than penetrates it. Henna is available in limited colors. The most popular colors are black, indigo and clay red. Henna, like a rinse may be applied to the hair immediately after a relaxer, without adverse affects.
Hair color options are wide and various for African-Americans. Being cautious to coordinate this service with other chemical services is the key to strong, healthy hair. There are permanent hair color products without ammonia and peroxide bases. These are the safest for Afro hair type. Even safer, are semi-permanent options such as rinses and henna. The goal is not only to have beautiful color, but to have beautiful hair too.

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Types of hair color

The four most common classifications are ‘temporary’, ‘semi-permanent’, ‘demi-permanent’ (sometimes called ‘deposit only’) and “permanent”

Temporary hair color
Temporary hair color is available in various forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and foams. Temporary hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and permanent hair color. It is most often used to color hair for special occasions such as costume parties and Halloween.
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer. The color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing.
Temporary hair color can persist on hair that is excessively dry or damaged in a way that allows for migration of the pigment to the interior of the hair shaft. It lasts for about a few hours to 1 day.

Semi-permanent hair color
Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4–5 shampoos or a few weeks. Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound P-Phenylenediamine or other such ingredients.
The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it will not be disguised as well. In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semi-permanent as a base and adding highlights.
Semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.

Demi-permanent hair color
Demi permanent hair color is permanent hair color that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia (e.g., ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and, while always employed with a developer, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than used with a permanent hair color. Since the alkaline agents employed in dem-perms are less effective in removing the natural pigment of hair than ammonia these products provide no lightening of hair’s color during dying. As the result, they cannot color hair to a lighter shade than it was before dyeing and are less damaging to hair than their permanent counterpart.
Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less so than permanents.
Demi-permanents have several advantages as compared with permanent color. Because there is essentially no lifting (i.e., removal) of natural hair color, the final color is less uniform/homogeneous than a permanent and therefore more natural looking; they are gentler on hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve. Demi-permanent hair colors are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular may persist longer than indicated on the packet.

Permanent hair color
All “permanent” hair color products and lighteners contain a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing agent (most often ammonia).
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer cause a chemical reaction that swells the hair permitting the tint to enter the cortex, where the melanin is located. The melanin is lightened and subsumed by the new color. The ammonia swells the cuticle of the hair to allow the color pigments to penetrate deep into the hair shaft.
Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it may fade. New hair growth in the hair’s natural color will contrast with the colored section of the hair.
Permanent hair dyes can be removed by bleaching, or stripping with a color remover. Theoretically, a color remover can return hair to its natural color if the hair has been treated with deposit-only dye, but this process may be damaging.

Hair lighteners and bleaches
Bleaching, also referred to as hair lightening or decolorizing, is a chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from hair. Hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide are frequently used. It has the side effect of raising of the cuticle, making the hair more porous.
If the hair has been colored, in order to go lighter it must first be cleansed or bleached. However, it is possible to lighten natural (virgin) hair with para dyes and hydrogen peroxide up to 4 levels depending on the product used


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