Faith Amour Hair Care

Archive for April 2012


I have used this method in the past to define my curls. Before I had heat damage in the front of my hair, shingling was my go to style. I heard of this method when I went to the World Natural Hair Show 2 years ago in Atlanta. At that time, the method was used by the Miss Jessie’s team of stylists so I am going to tell you how to do this method with Miss Jessie’s products. Not to say you have to use these products but they do work very well for curl definition.

What is Shingling™?
Shingling™ is a styling method developed and created at Miss Jessie’s salon to manually “turn kinks to curls.” You can achieve maximum curl definition and elongation if you capture your hair in the wet stage. Apply Miss Jessie’s CURLY PUDDING™ or Miss Jessie’s CURLY MERINGUE™ and use a comb to spread the product from root to end smoothing and stretching hair in a southbound direction. We call it Shingling because it looks like flat shingles in a brick-layered pattern. This styling method is excellent for naturally kinky, curly and wavy textures.

What are the tools I need to achieve these curly looks?
Portable tabletop dryer or
1800-watt blow dryer
Nozzle attachment or
Diffuser attachment
Wide-tooth comb
Medium tooth rat-tail comb
Neck towel
Spray-bottle

What do I do at night when my hair is Shingled™?
You can wear a satin cap. If you have major shrinkage tie a satin scarf loosely on your head to keep hair in a south bound direction.

What do I do in the morning when my hair is Shingled™?
You can add a dab of Miss Jessie’s CURLY or BABY BUTTERCREME™ to dry hair for moisture. Do not wet natural hair. You will have to start all over again. It will shrink back to its natural state. How long will SHINGLING™ last? It can last between 2-7 days depending on hair type and how you care for it.

Will Shingling™ really turn my kinks to curls?
Yes! It can turn most kinks to curls with the exception of textures with a ‘z’ pattern and tightly coiled hair formation.

To see a demonstration of how to shingle from Miss Jessies, click here

To see a fellow YouTuber Shingle her hair with Eco Styler gel and a Denman brush, which I have used as well, click here

**NOTE: Napps83 uses a diffuser first. I recommend after shingling, sit under hooded dryer until fully dry. Then use a concentrator attachment on the end of a blow dryer to give fullness ant the roots. That way, your curls will not become frizzyShingled


Stop hurting your curls

Though our hair seems so headstrong and thick, and mine tears up a cheap comb, the individual strands of hair are gossamer thin and delicate. They are damaged easily, and break off when damaged. Your hair won’t grow when damaged. If you can eliminate all the ways your hair is damaged, then it will grow to its maximum length (as long as your health is okay). Some things that damage our hair the most:

Relaxing or straightening.
Anything that involves sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide. These are the same chemicals in hair depilatories. The only difference is the hair removers are left on a bit longer. This is why they also work so well as drain openers; they eat up everything in their path. I spent most of my life applying these chemicals to my hair because I thought it would make my hair more manageable. I walked around with scabs all over my head because of how severe they were, yet could not for the life of me figure out why my hair wouldn’t grow.

Cooking your hair.
Anything that would blister your skin doesn’t feel so great on your hair either. Flat irons can actually melt the cuticles of your hair. Curling irons as well as flat irons can boil the water within your wet hair and make little bubbles within the shaft. Your hair will break off at these bubbles. A mild and careful blow-drying, especially with a diffuser should be okay, provided the heat isn’t too high, and you don’t concentrate the heat on any one spot.

Rough combing
Ripping a comb or brush through your tight curls will not only hurt, but it will damage your cuticles and stretch your hair through the force used to get the comb through. If your hair is stretched too far, it will break.


This year I have really been working on my hair care regimen. I have been trying to stick to a rather simple and less expensive regimen that is mostly natural. I have sensitive skin and I want to be able to use products on my hair that will not irritate my already irritated skin. So, here is what I do and I have seen the difference in my hair texture, breakage, and growth. I will try to post pictures but I am lacking the before and after because I don’t wear my natural hair out as often as I should.

For my everyday leave-in conditioner i mix these items in a spray bottle:
1 part distilled water (moisture)
1 part aloe vera (moisture)
1 part glycerin (locks in moisture and softens)
1 part pro vitamin Infusium 23 (protein)

**Infusium 23 Original Formula Pro-Vitamin Leave-In Conditioner infuses hair with Pro-Vitamin B5 for health, manageability, and shine. Rebuilds damaged hair to its natural condition. Restores dry, brittle hair. Protects against split ends. Seals cuticle after chemical services. Adds superb manageability and shine. I decided to add it after realizing that in my old regimen I had all moisture but no protein. I spray this on my hair everyday! (Or at least every other)

Now my hair oil, on the other hand, is a little more complicated yet free-handed! LOL! I really just grabbed every essential and carrier oils I purchased over the years and some of my mothers (the hair oil queen) oils as well and mixed them all in a squeeze bottle. The majority of the oil is extra virgin olive oil and I made sure there was some tea tree and lavender oils in there to tame my itchy and flaky scalp. I squeezed this mixture on my scalp and on the ends of my hair about every other day.

I co-wash my hair every Wednesday (depending on the style) with either Hello Hydration by Herbal Essence or Organix Sulfate Free Moroccan Argan Oil Hair Conditioner.

I wash my hair every Saturday (depending on the style) with Organix Sulfate Free Hydrating Macadamia Oil Shampoo or Organix Sulfate-Free Repairing Awapuhi Ginger Shampoo or Organix Sulfate Free Renewing Moroccan Argan Oil Shampoo.

After shampooing, I deep condition with a mixture of one of my conditioners, 1 egg, and a few drops of my hair oil. I leave that in for as long as I can stand it, or I sit under the dryer on medium for a while careful not to scramble the egg in my hair, or if I am at my mothers, I sit under her steamer for about 30 minutes then rinse in cool water. (I always rinse in COOL water)

I either blowdry, french braid, two strand twist, bantu knot, plait, flexi-rod, or roller set my hair for a new style.

I have done this for the last 4 months rather it be in braids, or i have a wig on, or my natural hair. When it is in braids, I did not wash it but maybe once a month (if that) but I did spray my hair with the leave in every day. It’s left my hair very soft and very manageable, shiny, detangled, and just overall HEALTHY. I have also been cutting the ends that I see are split and each month it gets less and less. I am excited to see the growth at the end of this year!!!

WISH ME LUCK!!!


**ACCORDING TO LONGHAIRDONTCARE.NET

Perhaps the most overwhelming aspect about deciding to take the plunge and commit to growing your hair to its longest lengths is figuring out how to build a good, solid, HEALTHY hair care regimen. If you are just starting out your healthy hair care journey, use the 3C’s as your foundation, and build upon your regimen from there. The 3C’s is a term that is used here at LHDC and incorporates the three main aspects of growing Black hair to its longest lengths – CLEANSE CONDITION CARE! And I guess, I should honorably mention a fourth & fifth C – CONSISTENCY and COMMITMENT!

The beginner’s shopping list should include (but certainly isn’t limited to):

Cleansing agents (i.e. sulfate-free shampoo), deep conditioner, water-based moisturizer, seamless wide-tooth comb, soft bristle boars-hair brush, plastic conditioning caps, satin pillow cases/scarves/bonnet, satin covered scrunchies, oil and a camera.

CLEANSE

How you are going to cleanse your hair and scalp is the first step to building a solid regimen. Forget about the advice that you may have been given that Black hair will dry out and break off if it is washed to frequently. Well, let me take that back; there is some truth to that statement depending on WHAT you are washing your hair with…but remember, that WATER is the best moisturizer for our hair and Black hair craves and thrives on it.

There are several ways that you can cleanse your hair and scalp including traditional shampoo, Ayurvedic powders, oil washes, apple cider vinegar mixes or, plain ol’ conditioner, just to rattle off a few. As a beginner, ask yourself: how am I going to cleanse my hair/scalp? Whatever method you choose it is important that you are cleansing AT LEAST once per week – more if possible.

If you choose shampoo as your cleansing method, use shampoos that are free of sulfates and harsh detergents and I recommend diluting your shampoo with 3 parts water to 1 part shampoo. When used frequently, sulfates not only dry your hair out, but they can also make your scalp itchy, cause split ends, rough hair follicles and even cause breakage. Here are some sulfate-free shampoos that you might want to try:

Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Shampoo, TiGi Bedhead Superstar Shampoo, Pureology Super Straight Shampoo, Kenra Platinum Color Care Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Matrix Biolage Normalizing Shampoo, Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo, Aubrey Organics Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo, Avalon Lemon Clarifying Shampoo, Creme of Nature*

When you cleanse, focus on your scalp rather than the length of your hair. Take note that apple cider vinegar is typically used to clarify and rid the scalp and hair of product build-up; if you choose this method, do not use it every day because you may find it to be drying. Honestly, the best method for daily cleansing is to use conditioner. Be mindful, though that you will need to clarify your hair more frequently depending on what conditioner you use and what (if anything) you mix in it. The Shikai-Co Wash recipe is an excellent option that allows you to co-wash daily while keeping the hair and scalp free of build up, so you don’t have to clarify as much. And I almost forgot to mention, be sure, too that the conditioner you use to co-wash is not a protein based conditioner…I suggest using a cheap conditioner like V05, Tresseme or Suave for your co-washes.

Condition

The conditioning step in the 3C’s specifically refers to deep conditioning. Deep conditioning with a moisture-based deep conditioner at least once per week is imperative for Black hair. If your hair is dry, brittle or chemically treated, you MUST make time to deep condition weekly. Deep conditioning revitalizes natural oils, hydrates and protects your hair. But keep in mind that not all conditioners are deep conditioners and be aware whether the conditioner you are using is MOISTURE or PROTEIN based. Protein conditioners are often called rebuilders or reconstructors and contain wheat, soy, animal or hydrolyzed protein among its top ingredients. Protein conditioners should be used in moderation. One way to identify if the conditioner you want to use is a DEEP conditioner is to read the instructions. A general rule of thumb (now this isn’t the case 100% of the time…) is if the instructions say to leave the conditioner on your hair for less than 10 minutes, chances are that product is not formulated for deep conditioning. Most deep conditioners need to be left on the hair for at least 15 minutes with heat and will say on the tub or bottle that it is an intensive or deep conditioner. If you do not have a hooded dryer or a heating cap, put on a stocking/wig cap over your plastic cap and leave the conditioner on your hair for an hour.

Some deep conditioners you may want to try are:

Motions After-Shampoo Moisture Plus Conditioner*, Doo Gro Deep Down Intense Penetrating Conditioner, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose, Elasta QP DPR-11*, Lekair Cholesterol*, Queen Helene Cholesterol, KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner

Care

This is the most involved step in the 3C’s because anything outside of cleansing and conditining, would fall under the umbrella of care. Care includes what kind of water-based moisturizer are you going to use? What kind of comb and/or brush are you going to use? How often are you going to comb and/or brush your hair? How often are you going to use direct heat? How are you going to style your hair on a daily basis? What about trims? Will you use a sealant? How will you cover your hair at night?

Caring for your hair is where most people get trapped and become product junkies. I am strongly against buying every product that someone raves about or tells you to buy. I am also against not finishing a product and buying another product of that same kind (i.e. buying a moisturizer and using it twice and then buying another because it is being raved about…). If you want to see the amount of money you spend on hair care get out of control, become a product junkie :0)

That is not to say that you won’t need to try a few products in order to find what works for you and your hair. My advice is to finish what you have BEFORE you buy something else; unless what you tried is ABSOLUTELY not working for you. When selecting products, pay attention to the ingredients and stay away from key ingredients (as much as possible) such as petroleum and mineral oil. Both petroleum and mineral oil are known to clog the pores on your scalp and inhibit hair growth. From my experience, these are OK to us on your HAIR but not on your SCALP.

Moisturizing – OIL AND GREASE ARE NOT MOISTURE!!! Get yourself a good WATER-based moisturizer and moisturize your hair at least once per day, paying particular attention to the ends of your hair. A water-based moisturizer is one that has water listed as one of the first three ingredients. Spritzing your hair with spring water is a good way to moisturize your hair when your moisturizer is not available (when you are on vacation or if your kids get into your hair products and waste your moisturizer all over the carpet…). Co-washing is a great way to get moisture into your strands and so is sleeping with a plastic conditioning cap.

Some water-based moisturizers that you may want to try are:

S-Curl, Sta-Sof-Fro*, ORS Olive Oil Moisturizer, Hollywood Beauty Olive Cream*, Motions Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion, KeraCare Oil Moisturizer with Jojoba Oil, your favorite leave-in or rinse-out conditioner

Combing/Brushing – Combing and/or brusing is otherwise known as manipulation. The more you manipulate your hair the more prone to breakage it is. If you want your hair to grow to its longest lengths, try to limit the amount of time you spend combing you hair. When you detangle your hair, only use a seamless, wide-tooth comb and detangle in sections. Work through knots, dreds and tangles with your fingers and NEVER rip through them. Refrain from combing your hair while it is dry. About brushing, invest in a soft boar’s bristle brush; really that is all you need to smooth down your edges or you can use a soft bristle toothbrush to really get those edges.

Direct Heat – Direct heat is the type of heat that you put directly on your hair – like when blow drying, flat ironing and curling. Using direct heat on a daily basis will literally burn the ends of your hair off and you will never see progress. If you use direct heat daily, stop NOW. It is OK to treat yourself to direct heat on occasion (like once every 3 or 4 months). If you like to wear your hair straight, consider using roller and silk wraps to achieve that sleek look instead.

Styling – No-contact styles are the best way to grow as you are growing your hair out. By no-contact I mean keeping your ends protected from contact with clothing, air and elements. Now, y’all know I love my bun! But wearing a bun everyday is not an option for some people and I realize that. However, once your hair is long enough to put up, I heavily suggest bunning to get you to your growth goal(s). Sure, a bun is boring and old-fashioned, BUT I cannot think of a better and less inexpensive way to grow your hair out with little to no manipulation and will allow you to retain your growth AND force you to moisturize EVERY DAY…unless you know how to braid your own hair. Use a satin scrunchie to hold your pony tails. If you don’t have a satin scrunchie or cannot find one, use a hair tie that doesn’t have those metal clamps to hold them, pre-soaked in the oil of your choice.

Braids are a good option to use as well when you are striving to achieve growth goals. The important thing with braids, though is NOT to slack on your cleansing, conditionig and moisturizing.

If your hair is right at your shoulders, wearing no-contact styles as often as possible is imperative because your hair will be constantly rubbing against the fabric of your clothes and drying out your precious ends and ultimately breaking them off, otherwise.

Other no-contact style suggestions are phony ponies, wigs or weaves. Keep in mind that just because your hair is hidden in braids, under a wig, weave, etc. does not mean that you don’t have to cleanse, condition or moisturize.

Trims – Basically, unless your hair is damaged (breakage or excessive split ends) it is not necessary to set a trimming schedule. You will know when your hair needs to be trimmed (whether you admit it to yourself or not) so trim it. However, in my personal experience, I find that regular trimming helps keep the hair not only looking better, but stronger as well. The ends are the oldest and most fragile part of your hair. I find that keeping them “young” and vibrant helps them to be stronger and more resilient to daily wear and tear. Stronger hair almost always = LONGER hair!

Lock-In – I have found that locking in moisture has really helped the overall condition of my hair. Locking in moisture is simply putting oil, grease or natural hair butter on the length and ends of your hair AFTER you have moisturized it.

At Night – Cover your hair each night with either a satin scarf or bonnet. If you do not want to cover your hair, sleep on a satin pillow case instead – but note that covering your hair is most effective.

Just as important as incorporating the 3C’s into your regimen is being consistent with it. Realize that what works for some may not work for you, so do what is best for YOUR hair and your life style. You will not see results without being consistent with whatever you choose to do and come to grips with the fact that growing your hair to its longest lengths will not happen over night, within a week or even a month. Make a commitment to your hair. The best way to keep yourself encouraged is to find support through various sources. With the visual of a video channel and the convenience of a Facebook friend’s page, Long Hair Don’t Care is a GREAT place to start! Do not expect your family and friends to embrace your decision. Most people do not like change when it comes to Black hair care and have just grown comfortable with the misconception that Black hair doesn’t grow. I have found that those closest to us often times are the most discouraging when it comes to your hair journey…with consistency, commitment and the 3C’s, I GUARANTEE your hair WILL grow to its longest lengths!!!

The last bit of advice I am going to offer is TAKE PICTURES! It is the BEST way to see that your hair is growing! Take a picture at the beginning of your journey and take one approximately every 3 months (or more) to compare and document your progress.

All right! That one was long, but I hope that you were able to get some pointers about building your 3C’s regimen. These really are just the basics. Don’t get frustrated and overwhelmed…and always remember that LESS is MORE when it comes to your regimen. I am here to help in any way that I can! Good luck and happy hair growing!!!

*Products that I have tried


Different ways to stretch the hair out for different looks

Shrinkage in very curly or black hair can be a friend or a foe. Depending on the size and degree of curl, shrinkage can be 50% or even up to 75% of its true length. Hair that falls to the mid back when straightened could shrink up to just below the ears when it dries naturally after a wash! It’s no wonder that some black women turn to relaxers and texturizers to ‘loosen’ or straighten out the curls and kinks. The only problem is that chemicals are notorious in their ability to weaken the hair during the straightening process which makes breakage imminent.

Shrinkage
The hair industry is currently length obsessed as evident in the success of the hair extensions market today but shrinkage doesn’t have to be a bad thing. There are plenty of stylish ways that curly hair can be worn in its natural state without resorting to heat or chemicals to straighten it out. Heat every once in a while is certainly not a bad thing but applying heat on the hair too often and especially when the hair has not been freshly washed and deep conditioned can be detrimental to the health of the hair.

Another positive aspect about shrinkage is that it allows for versatility that straight hair does not have. You can go from long flowing locks on one day to a short bob style the next without chopping your hair off!

There are a variety of techniques that some people use to stop or reduce the shrinkage of the hair.

1. Twist or braid the hair in sections when it is wet – This is the most common technique for reducing shrinkage. The braids or twists are undone once completely dry imparting a beautiful texture on the hair or leaving it relatively ‘stretched’ out and ready for the next step of the styling process.

2. Hair treatments – There are various treatments that you can give your curls to leave them elongated when dry. The most popular of these are the dairy based ones like yogurt treatments, sour cream treatment or plain milk treatment. The common denominator in these 3 is the lactic acid that seems to stretch out the hair and some have reported up to 40% less shrinkage after using the treatments. Like anything else, this is a process of trial and error. Some people’s hair seems to respond to different treatments better than others. The fact that these are only temporary effects (lasting until the next wash), is also appealing to most as there is no damage to the hair. The caramel treatment is also worth a mention. It involves the use of molasses, honey, bananas and some vinegar blended together to a caramel consistency. This is an excellent moisturizing treatment and it also leaves the curls hanging lower even after the hair is dry.

3. Banding – this involves sectioning hair when it is wet then tying a series of hair bands from root to tip hence the hair remains stretched as it dries. The bands are then taken down and hair is styled as usual.

4. Natural oils – Avocado butter is quite effective in stretching curly hair. When hair is twisted or braided with the butter, it will generally have much less shrinkage than without it. Shea butter is another good example.

5. Stretching and blow drying – This can be done after the hair has been styled when wet then air-dried which will leave the hair shrunken. To get back some of the length, a section of hair is taken and pulled (stretched) to the desired length then a warm hair dryer is blown over the length of the hair until it remains at that length when you let it go. To avoid any possible heat damage, the hair dryer should never be on a hot setting and should not be applied too close to the hair.

With a good hair care regimen, you can grow your hair to a length that you are comfortable with when it is shrunken to increase your styling options. When styling naturally curly hair, work with the shrinkage rather against it. It is the way the hair was meant to be!
My Shrinkage 4/5/2012


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